2013 De Martino Muscat Viejas Tinajas
- Bottle size
- 750 mL
Extraordinary was the first word that came to mind when I tasted the 2013 vintage of De Martino's Viejas Tinajas Muscat from Chile's Itata Valley but then I realised this was the same word Jancis had chosen, for different reasons, to describe a previous wine of the week from De Martino, their Viejas Tinajas Cinsault 2012. Yet I cannot find a better description.
The aroma of this pale golden wine is intense – initially more floral (rose petals) than grapey but still more like Muscat than Gewürztraminer. The floral character is underpinned by apricots and something like box, though I usually associate that smell with Sauvignon Blanc. After that initial captivating impression, the taste was a surprise: still grapey and perfumed but with an extraordinary smoky, almost sweaty, flavour of lapsang souchong and a definite dry saltiness that seems more intense than on the previous vintage. It's bone dry and the skin contact during fermentation seems to have added the scent of chamomile and hay, as well as a firm and unmistakable tannic effect on the finish.
It's definitely a wine to divide opinion because the flavours are so intense and distinctive – you could never ignore it or talk over it.
- Julia Harding MW, http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/de-martino-viejas-tinajas-muscat-2013-itata
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